Monday, October 26, 2009

Day 36 Cotopaxi, CO to Pueblo, CO

I started cycling, from the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, California on August 19th, and today I rolled into my final destination of this journey, Pueblo, Colorado on September 23th, 2009. I followed the Western Express Route, using the Adventure Cycling Maps, which were very informative and important to me. There is a lot of isolation through deserts on this route, so information was crucial, to say the least. These maps are very detailed and lead the way for me, as I just had to pedal. Now it's time to look back and reflect on what I have achieved. I always say, "it's not about the mileage, it's not about the duration, and it's not about me". Bicycle touring to me is "to be one with the road", "the unknown around that next corner", and "the friendships you make, as your passing through". I'm forever in debt, to the many people I've met along the way. You've all touched me in your own way, and for that, you'll never be forgotten. Thanks for the memories, they'll last a lifetime. On my last day of riding, I have one last summit to climb today, and the rest of the ride will be all downhill to Pueblo. I used more hand and toe warmers today as I hit a snow storm above 7,000'. At about 6,000' the rain started. The more I climbed, the colder it got. At about 7,000' the rain turned to snow and I wasn't near the summit as I had over 1000 more feet to climb. I had to pull over a suit up with all my winter gear. Hat, gloves, rain jacket and pants, and of course my pool towel, that I used as a face mask. I think I let out some choice words, but no one was around. This to me, was the cherry on top. I can't believe, I am cycling through a snow storm, or snow storms, because the last week has been crazy around here, weather wise. I finally crested the summit, but I wasn't finished yet. Going down this summit wasn't going to be a bargain either. Snow and freezing rain pelleting off the little exposed parts of my face, and the cold wind was sneaking through the smallest of cracks in my armor. It wasn't until I dropped a few thousand feet that I could stop shivering. I even ducked into a library in the tiny town of Wetmore. It was closed but the door was open. A few elderly people were inside, sitting at a long table drinking coffee and they invited me to join them. The one time I wish I drank coffee, as they offered me a cup. I really needed to warm up and it was very comfortable inside this building. I sat just soaking up the heat, while shooting the breeze with a few of the local towns people. They gave me the news I've wanted to here. "25 miles to Pueblo, and all downhill". Off I went, to finish something I started over a month ago. To reach the end of my route, in Pueblo, Colorado. The incredible part is that I heard the weather around here is supposed to get warm next week. That figures! This has been a tough tour, maybe one of my hardest, though nowhere close to the longest. Between the terrain, the weather, and the lack of services, the Western Express Route took a lot out of me. So after 36 days, 1,661 miles, and 4 states, I have finished my 12 tour by bicycle. My total tour mileage is over 31,000 miles and I'm not done yet. There's still a lot of places on this earth to see, as I've only scratched the surface. Until the next tour, thanks for viewing.

Day 35 Garfield, Co to Cotopaxi, CO

Can you say C-O-L-D!!!! How about S-N-O-W!!!! Ok, this takes first place, for being the coldest yet. I am at 11,ooo' and the sun is out but it's only in the high 20's this morning. I went down to the pool area at the lodge and grabbed a towel to use as a neck warmer and face mask. (photo above) This is ridiculous, it's only September, not December! The bad thing about this is that I have many miles of downhill to do this morning. Downhill, means high speeds, high speeds mean wind in the face, and wind in the face at 28 degrees means frozen nose, eyes, and ears, not to mention every other body part. I went into a Wal-Mart in Salida to buy a pair of winter gloves but the woman working there said they don't have them out yet. To early in the season, I guess. Well, so is the temps around here, I thought. I came across the next best thing. Hand Warmers, that you use while skiing, or any other outdoor winter activity. They fit right inside your gloves. I got a few pairs and used them in my gloves and in my shoes. This was a super idea, I feel warmer already and used them all day. I got to another KOA and rented a cabin again. Notice I'm not camping anymore. Just a little to cold for that, around here at least. This cabin had a space heater and I blasted it all night.

Day 34 Gunnison, CO to Garfield, CO

My plan for today, was to take a half day and stop at the town of Sargents and get another cabin. Rest up and tomorrow, climb the Continental Divide to Monarch Pass. I was so happy to get to Sargents by noon, knowing I was going to stop there. I went inside the cafe and store to rent a cabin, when the owner of them told me a storm was coming tonight and it was going to bring a couple of inches of snow to the mountain pass. He told me I'd be better off doing it today than chancing it tomorrow. My heart sank, as I didn't really want to climb this monster today. This is not just another mountain pass, as I have done what seems to be hundreds of times before. This is Monarch Pass at 11,312' over the Continental Divide and will be the highest I have ever been on a bicycle. So I am a bit nervous and excited at the same time. He told me about a lodge that was just over the summit, and that it is only 10 miles to the top. 10 miles straight up, sounds easy in a car, doesn't it. Ok, Ok, I said, your right. I have to do it today, thank you I said and pedalled up that monster. I got the sense people in the cars passing me, wondered why I would want to bike this. I don't know that I want to, but it's part of my route, so I am doing it. I know I can do it. I can climb pretty good and I still have energy after eating a quick lunch in Sargents. It took two and a half hours to bike that 10 miles uphill to the summit. I threw my arms in the air in victory and took a few photos before heading into the summit store and cafe to warm up. It was close to freezing at 11,312' and it was 3 in the afternoon. Going down the backside of the pass was so cold. I was bundled up like I was in Alaska, in dead of winter, but that's how cold I was. Only a few miles and I found the lodge the man in Sargents was telling me about. My eyes lit up when I found out that this lodge has a outdoor hot tub, and indoor swimming pool, and a sauna. I used all 3 happily. The room for the night was only $40, the best deal of the trip. Thanks to the stranger in Sargents who told me to do the pass today. Yes, it snowed that night. Just an inch or two, but it's nice that I got the highest pass of the trip behind me. I will sleep well tonight.

Day 33 Cimmaron, CO to Gunnison, CO

I used the same trick again this morning with the hand dryers in the bathroom. It's seems very important to camp where there is a bathroom with electric hand dryers, because the temperature in the morning has been close to freezing for over a week now. It's the elevation, because I have not been below 6,000' in weeks and it's late September, anything can happen here. I warmed up quickly with a 1500' climb that didn't want to end. I was taking a rest stop along the scenic Gunnison River, as another biker (Bob) pulled up to the picnic table I was at. Bob, was a older man, doing a 3 week tour of all the high passes in Colorado. I never heard of someone that wanted to bike over these high passes. I told Bob, that I was trying to avoid all the high passes of Colorado, but I wasn't doing a very good job of it. It started to rain and we left the rest spot at different times and passed each other a few times, but didn't really bike together at all. I think Bob turned off to attack another high peak down a side road. I was just trying to head east, thinking that was hard enough. I made it to the town of Gunnison. Gunnison, CO is know for being the coldest spot in the Continental US during the winter months. I headed for a KOA campground that I saw on my map. When I arrived, (Mike) the manager asked me how I would like not to set up my tent tonight. What are you talking about I said. We have A-Frame cabins and I will give you one for the same price as a tent site. That sounds great to me, I'll take it. The A-Frame cabin has nothing in it. No bed, no heat, but it did have a light and an outlet to charge my electronics. I laid out my sleeping pad and bag and was plenty warm for the night. Also at the KOA's, they usually have a common area, with a TV and books. I cooked my dinner outside my cabin, (photo above) and ate overlooking a small man made pond. I couldn't thank Mike enough, as he hooked me up!

Day 32 Ridgeway, CO to Cimmaron, CO

I have a new plan for this morning. Since it's been so cold in the morning just after waking up, today I will do my laundry first and let it warm up before setting off. It's so cold outside, that I ate breakfast in the laundry room and again used the bathroom hand dryers to warm up my hands. It was only a little after 9am, when I hit the road. The sun rose just enough to begin warming the mountain air. Another surprise to me was that I am biking through "Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park". I never even heard of this park before. I camped in the park at Cimarron Campground, and took a short walk after set up to the Gunnison River and Dam. I walked down this road that started at the campground and lead to deep canyon walls and a 400' high dam that they use for hydro electric power, as well as hiking trails along the Gunnison River.

Day 31 Trout Lake, CO to Ridgeway, CO

I am freezing! Oh, that's why, it's only 34 degrees this morning, and fresh snow on the mountain tops. (photo above) Even though the campground was closed, the bathroom was still open and they had electric hand warmers which I used for half an hour just to thaw out my hands. The manager came over to me this morning just to see if I was ok and if I needed anything. He was the one to tell me about the bathrooms. The first part of my ride this morning was bitter cold, but after a few climbs, I warmed up. I met another bike tourer, "Adam" but he was going the other way. Adam was planning on spending a few days in Telluride, at this weekends "Blues and Brews" festival. I decided to stay away from the large drunken crowd of people and shoot right by Telluride. At day's end I found a state park with shelters over the tent sites which was nice, seeing that it has been raining everyday around here.

Day 30 Dolores, CO to Trout Lake, CO

I had a great sleep in the rec room last night. It's not raining this morning, but it sure looks like it wants to out there. Well, those mountains I could see outlined days ago, they are now here. I will be climbing over Lizard Head Pass at 10,222' today. I climbed a good part of the day, but the one thing I noticed that is different here than in Utah is that the grades of the mountain passes are not as steep here in Colorado. That is good news for me. Mountains are popping up out of everywhere, as I gain elevation. Though I climbed all morning and part of the afternoon, my legs aren't as bad as those crazy climbs in Utah. Made it to the summit of Lizard Head and met another biker on top, next to the elevation sign post. "Brandon" was biking west, heading for Arizona, looking for work. Downhill at long last, and fast. Getting late I knew of a campground just a few miles from the summit. I passed Trout Lake (Photo Above), which was worth a stop. A beautiful lake with mountains behind it, and my camp spot right next to it. Well, the campground was closed! It was under construction but I didn't care and went around the locked gate, something you can't do in a vehicle. People were there working, but I just kept out of the way and out of site and set up camp. The next thing I knew, it was raining and raining hard. I went into my tent to stay dry and a few minutes later the construction managers came over to me and said I couldn't stay here and had to leave. They were being nice about it, but they said the big boss said no one is allowed to camp here while the camp is closed. I tried to beg but nothing doing. They left and I started to panic. It was very cold, getting late, and was raining very hard outside. The worst part was, that I would have to break down camp and bike off to find another spot, more than likely just down the street in the woods. The more I waited the harder the rain came down. It was pouring out, and I'm freezing cold. I ran out of my tent and over to the managers RV. This time I must have really looked down and out, because the first thing they said to me was "you can't move in this rain". After some sweet talking, they said that they would let me stay for the night but I had to leave early in the morning, before the big boss showed up. No problem, I said as I leave early anyway. I ran back to my tent so happy that I didn't have to move. Wow, that was close, I said to myself.